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More about keys ... What are keys made of? Is brass or steel the best?
Use the INQUIRY PAGE to contact us if you are interested in our keys-cut-to-code service. Or just email us with at least these details -Your Name, Your Country e.g. USA, Vehicle (make, model, year), Do you have existing keys? What replacements are you inquiring about? Will you attach photos of your keys to this email?
Key materials:
usually brass or steel
usually brass or steel
Some of our keys are available in a choice of brass or steel, sometimes it's only one or the other with no choice.
All our keys, unless hard-to-get "new old stock" (NOS), are recently-manufactured of high grade materials with a bright nickel finish and excellent quality. Remember that only our original-OEM keys have the vehicle maker's name or logo.
Some keys are available either as "all-metal" or "black-head". The black head is molded onto the key, it's not slip-on. It's durable plastic, not rubber. It will resemble closely an original key's look and feel.
All our keys, unless hard-to-get "new old stock" (NOS), are recently-manufactured of high grade materials with a bright nickel finish and excellent quality. Remember that only our original-OEM keys have the vehicle maker's name or logo.
Some keys are available either as "all-metal" or "black-head". The black head is molded onto the key, it's not slip-on. It's durable plastic, not rubber. It will resemble closely an original key's look and feel.
Brass keys: good or bad?
Brass - advantages and disadvantages:
- softer material, easier for key cutters and locksmiths
- any key cutter can cut them, best for locksmiths when hand-making keys
- best choice for key blanks you will get cut in North America
- not as strong as steel: brass keys can break or twist more readily, worse in extreme cold climates or sticking locks
- common for most British and US locks
- gentler on lock internal parts, but brass that wears off the key will accumulate in the lock
- keys wear faster (so locks wear slower)
- softer material, easier for key cutters and locksmiths
- any key cutter can cut them, best for locksmiths when hand-making keys
- best choice for key blanks you will get cut in North America
- not as strong as steel: brass keys can break or twist more readily, worse in extreme cold climates or sticking locks
- common for most British and US locks
- gentler on lock internal parts, but brass that wears off the key will accumulate in the lock
- keys wear faster (so locks wear slower)
Steel keys: good or bad?
Steel - advantages and disadvantages:
- harder material, not suitable for locksmiths to hand-make keys, and not all key cutters will cut them, especially in North America
- very strong: keys are difficult to break or twist, best in extreme cold climates or sticking locks
- common for European cars and motorcycle locks, and often more original for them
- not so gentle on lock internal parts but should not cause problems for any lock that's kept clean and lubricated
- for classic vehicles used occasionally, wear is probably negligible even with steel keys
- harder material, not suitable for locksmiths to hand-make keys, and not all key cutters will cut them, especially in North America
- very strong: keys are difficult to break or twist, best in extreme cold climates or sticking locks
- common for European cars and motorcycle locks, and often more original for them
- not so gentle on lock internal parts but should not cause problems for any lock that's kept clean and lubricated
- for classic vehicles used occasionally, wear is probably negligible even with steel keys
Key metallurgy 101
- BRASS
- BRASS
Brass key blanks: Plain brass, with no coating, are not common for automotive locks. Examples might be found for pre-1970s applications but the key industry since then has mostly moved to the materials below. Brass for keys is typically about 2/3 copper and 1/3 zinc. Higher copper content = softer and more workable, higher zinc content = harder and more resistant.
Nickel-coated brass key blanks are exactly what the name says. A thin coating of nickel is applied to a brass blank to make it more attractive, corrosion resistant and a little stronger. Of course when your individual key is produced the coating is cut away from the thin edges of the key so it’s uncoated brass that contacts the lock’s pins/wafers/disks, retaining the lubrication effect of brass on brass.
Examples: many vehicle replacement keys. In North America nickel-coated brass is the favorite material for makers such as Ilco-DL-Taylor.
Nickel-coated brass key blanks are exactly what the name says. A thin coating of nickel is applied to a brass blank to make it more attractive, corrosion resistant and a little stronger. Of course when your individual key is produced the coating is cut away from the thin edges of the key so it’s uncoated brass that contacts the lock’s pins/wafers/disks, retaining the lubrication effect of brass on brass.
Examples: many vehicle replacement keys. In North America nickel-coated brass is the favorite material for makers such as Ilco-DL-Taylor.
Key metallurgy 101
- STEEL
- STEEL
Steel key blanks: Steel is the predominant material for some European marques with regular (“flat”) keys, so aftermarket key blanks for that automotive segment are also often made of steel. Steel is stronger and more durable: less prone to wear, bending, tearing or breakage. Steel alloy keys are coated (otherwise they’d rust, right?), unless we’re talking about rare stainless steel ones. It’s usually the same kind of nickel coating used for brass keys, and brass and steel versions of the same key blank are visually indistinguishable until cut.
Steel hardness is difficult to predict and regular HSS (high speed steel) key cutter wheels are not sufficient; higher-cost carbide wheels are required. Specialists accustomed to European vehicles are more likely to have that equipment.
Examples of steel keys: many European aftermarket keys such as from Silca. Many European originals too, both cars and motorcycles.
Steel hardness is difficult to predict and regular HSS (high speed steel) key cutter wheels are not sufficient; higher-cost carbide wheels are required. Specialists accustomed to European vehicles are more likely to have that equipment.
Examples of steel keys: many European aftermarket keys such as from Silca. Many European originals too, both cars and motorcycles.
Key metallurgy 101
- 'NICKEL-SILVER'
- 'NICKEL-SILVER'
‘Nickel-silver’ key blanks are made from an alloy of copper, nickel, and zinc, offering a silver-like appearance but actually do not contain (expensive!) silver. ‘Nickel-silver’ is more durable and corrosion resistant than brass, but softer and not as strong as steel.
A common formulation is 60% copper + 20% nickel + 20% zinc. ‘Nickel-silver’ is generally a more expensive alloy than brass, but a more durable and attractive alternative. (Being primarily copper based, a more accurate name for this alloy would be ‘nickel-brass’).
Possibly the best available material for most keys for classics? Goldilocks' favourite? (not too hard, not too soft….etc!)
A common formulation is 60% copper + 20% nickel + 20% zinc. ‘Nickel-silver’ is generally a more expensive alloy than brass, but a more durable and attractive alternative. (Being primarily copper based, a more accurate name for this alloy would be ‘nickel-brass’).
Possibly the best available material for most keys for classics? Goldilocks' favourite? (not too hard, not too soft….etc!)
Key metallurgy 101
- OTHER
- OTHER
Aluminium key blanks? Although used for some domestic lock applications they are rarely used, if at all, for motor cars. Titanium? Yes, some special keys, with special prices too...
How to know which material a key blank is made of? As stated above, if it’s coated it’s not easy to know from a visual inspection.
Coated key blanks:
Brass (nickel coated) = non-magnetic and gold-colored edge when cut. Very soft to cut.
Steel (nickel coated) = magnetic and dull silver-colored edge when cut. Hard to cut.
Uncoated key blanks:
Nickel-silver = non-magnetic and lighter silver-color when cut. Medium softness to cut.
Stainless steel = usually non-magnetic* and uncoated, so typical stainless appearance. Hard to cut.
* 300 series stainless steel is non-magnetic and the most likely type
How to know which material a key blank is made of? As stated above, if it’s coated it’s not easy to know from a visual inspection.
Coated key blanks:
Brass (nickel coated) = non-magnetic and gold-colored edge when cut. Very soft to cut.
Steel (nickel coated) = magnetic and dull silver-colored edge when cut. Hard to cut.
Uncoated key blanks:
Nickel-silver = non-magnetic and lighter silver-color when cut. Medium softness to cut.
Stainless steel = usually non-magnetic* and uncoated, so typical stainless appearance. Hard to cut.
* 300 series stainless steel is non-magnetic and the most likely type
KEYS4CLASSICS.COM (KEYSFORCLASSICS.COM)
We provide the highest quality keys and key services for classic mid-to-late 20th century vehicles
YOU NEVER NEED TO SEND US YOUR KEYS. WE WORK FROM EMAILED PHOTOS.
Important note: We do not deal with modern keys that use electronics (transponder keys), which is most vehicles from about the late 1990s.
Also, we do not supply general automotive parts. We are simply experts with keys for older vehicles.
Keys4Classics.com is located in Canberra, the capital city of Australia.
Proudly working with classic car and motorcycle owners worldwide since 2001…!
